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Jigging for Snapper
Jigging for Snapper
Metal jigs and snapper aren’t often strung together in the same sentence, but in the right situation they are surprisingly effective on reds. We have been jigging for snapper a bit over the past couple of seasons to good effect on fish up to 9kg. We have got a lot of fish in the 4 – 7kg size, which are generally the energetic schooling fish in our local area.
Metal jigs are generally restricted to the deeper snapper drops, and in my local waters we use them in the 20 to 30m depth range. They are a good option when it is rough and when the tide is racing, when in this situation many other lures struggle to be fished effectively.
They aren’t the kind of lure we would drop to scout an area; rather they are an effective tool when a school of fish has been identified near the bottom and the conditions prevent us from fishing traditional lures or baits for snapper. It’s always possible to load-up with heavy lead in an attempt to get a bait to the bottom, but with the lighter threadline outfits as standard snapper tackle these days, battling with 400g of lead isn’t really an option. Also when jigging for reds, it definitely weans out the smaller undersized fish.
Once we have found a showing of fish on the sounder, we will motor up-current or up-wind of the sounding, and will drift back over the school working our metal jigs. Some days it’s just too uncomfortable to anchor in our Gulf waters, and we are left no option but to brave the conditions by drifting. We often use a sea anchor or engage the motor to slow our speed of drift.
By referring to metal jigging we’re not talking about using big offshore metal sliders of 300g or more; rather we are talking about 40 to 60g slim-profile metal jigs that represent fleeing baitfish about the length of a whitebait or frogmouth pilchard. The jigs we have been using are 55g butterfly jigs from Shimano.
These metal jigs hit the bottom in seconds, and you can maintain a positive connection even in rough water. Threadline outfits are great in this situation, with a 6 – 8kg outfit spooled with 20lb braid just about ideal. My outfit of choice for this work is a Shimano Sustain 4000 matched to a 6 – 8kg T-Curve with 20lb Power Pro braid.
We will fish these metal jigs on the drift in most cases, but they are also effective at anchor when some nice fish have been located. But in honesty, I think these jigs are better suited for slow drift fishing, allowing you to cover likely ground.
The majority of fishing is straight up and down with these lures. Once we have noted some fish on the sounder, we’ll drop to the bottom and begin a mid-paced jig retrieve. Remember that snapper can’t chase baitfish at the same speed as a kingfish or Samson, nor will they rise as high off the reef in pursuit. Try to jig only to about 8 - 10m off the reef, then drop and repeat until you have passed the school. I still like to impart action into the retrieve, giving short hops of the jig as it’s raised up off the seafloor.
The strike by a good red on a metal jig is quite different to that of other lure styles. I often find the fish will hit the jig but will continue to swim upwards for a while (as that is probably the fish’s direction of movement after it has chased the jig off the reef). You will often feel the weight of the fish, rather than an intense swipe and dive like you get with species of Seriola.
I have found the 55g slidend style butterfly jig to be the best suited jig for snapper. It has a great action on the drop, and when the snapper are schooled-up, they attack the jigs with aggression. I rig my butterfly jig onto a rods length of 40lb fluorocarbon leader. On the head-end (lighter end) I have the assist hook swinging off a split ring, which comes rigged as standard. I attach the jig via a uni-knot to the head-end loop, so the jig drops tail-first.
They’re certainly not standard fare for snapper, but in the right situation metal jigs are an effective tool and a whole lot of fun. Jigging is an active form of fishing, and it’s always good to be branching out and trying new techniques.
Metal jigs are generally restricted to the deeper snapper drops, and in my local waters we use them in the 20 to 30m depth range. They are a good option when it is rough and when the tide is racing, when in this situation many other lures struggle to be fished effectively.
They aren’t the kind of lure we would drop to scout an area; rather they are an effective tool when a school of fish has been identified near the bottom and the conditions prevent us from fishing traditional lures or baits for snapper. It’s always possible to load-up with heavy lead in an attempt to get a bait to the bottom, but with the lighter threadline outfits as standard snapper tackle these days, battling with 400g of lead isn’t really an option. Also when jigging for reds, it definitely weans out the smaller undersized fish.
Once we have found a showing of fish on the sounder, we will motor up-current or up-wind of the sounding, and will drift back over the school working our metal jigs. Some days it’s just too uncomfortable to anchor in our Gulf waters, and we are left no option but to brave the conditions by drifting. We often use a sea anchor or engage the motor to slow our speed of drift.
By referring to metal jigging we’re not talking about using big offshore metal sliders of 300g or more; rather we are talking about 40 to 60g slim-profile metal jigs that represent fleeing baitfish about the length of a whitebait or frogmouth pilchard. The jigs we have been using are 55g butterfly jigs from Shimano.
These metal jigs hit the bottom in seconds, and you can maintain a positive connection even in rough water. Threadline outfits are great in this situation, with a 6 – 8kg outfit spooled with 20lb braid just about ideal. My outfit of choice for this work is a Shimano Sustain 4000 matched to a 6 – 8kg T-Curve with 20lb Power Pro braid.
We will fish these metal jigs on the drift in most cases, but they are also effective at anchor when some nice fish have been located. But in honesty, I think these jigs are better suited for slow drift fishing, allowing you to cover likely ground.
The majority of fishing is straight up and down with these lures. Once we have noted some fish on the sounder, we’ll drop to the bottom and begin a mid-paced jig retrieve. Remember that snapper can’t chase baitfish at the same speed as a kingfish or Samson, nor will they rise as high off the reef in pursuit. Try to jig only to about 8 - 10m off the reef, then drop and repeat until you have passed the school. I still like to impart action into the retrieve, giving short hops of the jig as it’s raised up off the seafloor.
The strike by a good red on a metal jig is quite different to that of other lure styles. I often find the fish will hit the jig but will continue to swim upwards for a while (as that is probably the fish’s direction of movement after it has chased the jig off the reef). You will often feel the weight of the fish, rather than an intense swipe and dive like you get with species of Seriola.
I have found the 55g slidend style butterfly jig to be the best suited jig for snapper. It has a great action on the drop, and when the snapper are schooled-up, they attack the jigs with aggression. I rig my butterfly jig onto a rods length of 40lb fluorocarbon leader. On the head-end (lighter end) I have the assist hook swinging off a split ring, which comes rigged as standard. I attach the jig via a uni-knot to the head-end loop, so the jig drops tail-first.
They’re certainly not standard fare for snapper, but in the right situation metal jigs are an effective tool and a whole lot of fun. Jigging is an active form of fishing, and it’s always good to be branching out and trying new techniques.
